The German Colony – The Complete Guide to Jerusalem's European Neighborhood

Walking down Emek Refaim Street for the first time, it can be hard to believe you are in Jerusalem. Low stone houses with steep tiled roofs, wooden shutters and German inscriptions carved above the front doors make a picture that suggests a village in southern Germany more than the capital of Israel. And that is exactly the essence of the neighborhood: a meeting between European architecture and Jerusalem stone, which over the years has turned into one of the most desirable, most expensive and liveliest neighborhoods in the city.

The neighborhood's character and history

The German Colony was founded in 1873 by members of the Templer sect, a German Protestant Christian group that broke away from the German church and believed in bringing about redemption through settlement in the Holy Land. It was the fourth colony the Templers established in the country (after Haifa and Jaffa), on land purchased in the Refaim Valley, south-west of what was then the Old City. The settlers built their houses in the rural style of Württemberg, the region they came from, but instead of the wood and brick usual in Germany they used local Jerusalem stone - a combination that produced the distinctive architectural character still visible on the street. After the founding of the State of Israel the neighborhood's official name was changed to "Emek Refaim", but Jerusalemites still simply call it "the German Colony" or "the Colony". In 1975 the neighborhood was declared a historic site, and today it is covered by a conservation plan protecting its stone facades, arched openings and original urban fabric.

What to see and do

The best way to get to know the neighborhood is simply to wander Emek Refaim Street and its side lanes and look at the houses - many of them still carry biblical verses in German on the lintel. At the corner of the street, on a hill overlooking the Hinnom Valley, stands St Andrew's Scottish Church, built in 1927 and incorporating Armenian tilework. The neighborhood also adjoins the First Station complex - Jerusalem's historic railway station, converted over the past decade into a culture, leisure and food center with performances, markets and events. HaMesila Park runs out from the First Station, a pleasant walking and cycling path laid along the route of the old railway line that leads south towards the Malha neighborhood.

Food and cafés

Emek Refaim is considered one of the most fashionable streets in Jerusalem, and a long run of cafés, restaurants and boutiques stretches along it. The character here is varied - from long-standing cafés to new, concept-driven places, alongside patisseries and both meat and dairy restaurants. The nearby First Station complex holds another concentration of restaurants and food stalls, which makes the whole area a pleasant destination for a full day out.

Getting there

The German Colony is south-west of the Old City, not far from the Baka and Katamonim neighborhoods, and easy to reach on foot, by bike or by public transport from the city center. Its closeness to HaMesila Park also makes it a convenient crossing point between central Jerusalem and the southern neighborhoods of the city.

Whether you are a long-time resident of the neighborhood or planning a visit, it is worth following livejlm.com for ongoing updates on events, performances and activities taking place in the German Colony and across Jerusalem's other neighborhoods.