The Iraqi Market Revolution: How a Vegetable Lane Turns into the Heart of Jerusalem's Nightlife

At seven in the evening something changes in the Iraqi Market, one of the lanes of Mahane Yehuda.

The shutters come down with a metallic clatter, one after another, and the piles of vegetables give way to plastic chairs unfolded on the stone. The same lane that was selling tomatoes this morning is now pouring beer.

This is not one restaurant that opened. This is a whole quarter that swaps roles every night.

Chapter 1: What was here before

Before this was the hottest bar strip in the city, it was simply a vegetable lane.

The Iraqi Market is one of the oldest parts of Mahane Yehuda, named after the traders who worked here for generations. The narrow stalls and the old paving stones are the same ones — only the contents have changed.

The lovely part is that the past has not been erased. When the shutters are down you can see the colourful paintings on them that turned the lanes into a street gallery, and underneath them you can still smell the spices from the morning.

Chapter 2: Beer and cocktails between the stalls

The magic of the place is that you never know what is hiding behind each shutter.

The most natural way in starts at Azura. Anyone who knows it from its heavy lunchtime cooking will be surprised — in the evening it softens into a glass of wine or a beer after a long day.

From there you carry on deeper into the lanes.

For beer lovers

BeerBazaar is the anchor of local beer in the market. Hundreds of beers from Israeli breweries, tables spilling out into the lane, and music that rises as the evening goes on.

This is the place to start an evening — or simply to stay in until the end.

For cocktail lovers

A little further along hides Casino de Paris, a bar with real history.

The place once served as a club in the days of the British Mandate, and that atmosphere is still there. Clean cocktails, low lighting, and a corner that is relatively quiet compared with the noise outside.

For a party atmosphere

The Fifth of May is one of those places that spreads out across the lane with good music and food from the market. If you want an evening livelier than a quiet bar — this is the address.

Chapter 3: When to come and how to get a table

Now for the part that separates the people who enjoy themselves from the people left standing outside.

Thursday evening is the peak. The lanes fill up from around nine, and if you turn up after ten — be ready to wait for a table.

The tips that will save your evening

• Want the atmosphere without the crush? Come midweek. Tuesday and Wednesday are quieter, and the waiters have time to talk.
• Have to have Thursday? Get there early, around eight, and grab a table before the wave.
• Coming as a big group? Call ahead. In the narrow lanes there is not much room to improvise for eight people.
• Dressed up for the evening? Bear in mind that this is a street — the stone is uneven and the chairs are basic. Comfortable shoes beat heels.

So what's next?

The Iraqi Market at night is one of those places Jerusalem keeps for itself, and it is worth getting to know it properly.

The bars, the happy hours and the opening times change all the time — what is open tonight will not necessarily be open next week. To stay up to date, follow the live updates and upcoming events at livejlm.com.

And if you want to see what the lane really looks like once the shutters come down — take a virtual tour. Watch our first-person walking tours on the livejlm YouTube channel, and pick your next bar before you even leave the house.

Frequently asked questions

When does the Iraqi Market turn into a bar district?

In the evening, from around seven, once the stalls pull their shutters down. Chairs are set out on the stone and the bars start filling the lanes.

Which is the best night to go out in the Iraqi Market?

Thursday is the busiest night and the one with the most energy. Tuesday and Wednesday are quieter and easier if you want a table without a fight for it.

Which bars are in the Iraqi Market?

BeerBazaar for beers from Israeli breweries, Casino de Paris for cocktails with history, and Azura, which softens in the evening into a glass of wine or a beer.